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Category: Male clothing > arming garments



Arming doublet


Arming doublet

Century: XV
Arming doublet. Medieval Market, Men in doublet

Arming doublet - Medieval Market, Brown arming doublet
Arming doublet - Medieval Market, Back of arming doublet
Arming doublet - Medieval Market, Tying  of doublet
Arming doublet - Medieval Market, Sleeve of arming garment
Arming doublet - Medieval Market, Collar of arming garment
Arming doublet - Medieval Market, lower edge has small, “A”-shaped cutouts in front and on sides


CODE Material
Standard
?
Price
PMLR0470LinenHand-made 390.00 EUR
PMLS0469LinenMixed 169.00 EUR

See how to place an order for several people




An arming doublet is dedicated for the reenactors of the 14th and the 15th century . It is shorter than standard gambesons but it bears similar protective features.

The design of this model is very universal. It will work well as a part of fighting gear but also as a piece of civil clothing.

Our arming doublet has a waist seam and is laced in front in a so-called overcast method. It has a high, V-shaped collar. The doublet’s lower edge has small, “A”-shaped cutouts in front and on sides.

On each side, this arming doublet has points for mounting hose. There are 7 pairs of them. In comparison with doublet armor, this model is slightly longer.

The stuffing of an arming doublet is as follows:
- Y7b - on chest
- Y7a - on the rest of the jacket
You will find more information on the stuffing of arming garments here!

Our arming doublet is available in a full range of colors - you will find them here and 6 sizes:

Size Chest girth Waist girth Hips girth Height
XS 84-92 cm 72-80 cm 88-96 cm 164-170 cm
S 92-100 cm 80-88 cm 96-104 cm 170-176 cm
M 100-108 cm 88-96 cm 104-112 cm 176-182 cm
L 108-116 cm 96-104 cm 112-120 cm 182-188 cm
XL 116-124 cm 104-112 cm 120-128 cm 188-194 cm
XXL 124-132 cm 112-120 cm 128-136 cm 194-200 cm
Custom Individual measurements. Price + 20%.




Arming doublet in sources

The examples of arming doublets from the 14th and 15th centuries can be found in the famous Gladiatoria (or MS German Quarto 16) from 1435-40. Currently the book is stored in the Jagiellonian Library in Krakow, Poland.
The pieces of clothing visible on the pages of the manuscript (e.g. folio 54v, 55r, 55v) are closed in an overcast lacing method, have high collars in V-shape, and their bottom part is attached to hose.



Basic features of an arming doublet

- shorter than standard gambesons but longer than the version with leather straps
- with a waist seam
- 7 pairs of holes at the bottom
- cutouts on sides and in front
- a late-medieval clothing
- universal design (for civilians and fighters)
- closed in an overcast stitching method
- available in 6 sizes (XS-XXL)
- modifiable



Gladiatoria - the remarkable work on historical fencing

Gladiatoria is a German treatise teaching historical fencing. The mentioned MS German Quarto 16 is a part of a bigger series containing a few manuscripts of similar style and theme.

The treatise is based on the tradition of Johannes Liechtenauer but it does not follow him directly.
Gladiatoriapresents fighting techniques with the use of various weapons.



A doublet - from an under clothing to regular arming garment

A doublet is a tight piece of an outfit worn on a shirt but under other layers of clothing. It was made of both linen and wool. This unique example of men’s wear from its’ beginning was much shorter than gambesons or cottes - it reached the hips. Usually it had long sleeves and it is typical for the fashion of the turn of the medieval and renaissance periods (from the 14th to 17th century).
A doublet had openings for attaching the hose. It could be buttoned up or closed with an overcast lacing method.

In the 15th century the length of doublet was modified and from this moment we can mention a separate model - known commonly as an arming doublet. In comparison with the standard doublet, new kaftans had a role similar to gambeson. Due to their design, they were shorter and lighter than popular aketons.
In this time sleeves were also modified. The characteristic puffed sleeves appeared which, apart from the aesthetic considerations, protected the arms against the press of pauldrons. The collar also grew. In the new form, it became more protective.
In the next years, doublets became narrower and adjacent to the body, underlining the body shape. Slim sleeves and tightened waist made the male profile much more dignified and the chest more prominent.



The upgrading of SPES gambesons design

Currently, we are working on implementing to our assortment the upgraded versions of our well-known medieval padded armors. Changes include:
- improving the functionality and mobility of our aketons
- layers’ thickness (check the chart with levels of amortization)
- directions and shape of stitchings
- minor changes in cut (for better fitting)
- and most of all, matching the gambesons to our six-levels size set: XS-XXL (NOTE: you can still order a custom-sized gambeson)
Therefore, you can be sure that upgraded SPES gambesons are even better suited to your needs. And if you have any questions about mentioned changes in any model, contact us - we will dispel the doubts!

To make each gambeson stand out even more, we gave them unique names. From now on, the Arming doublet type 2 is named Arming doublet.





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